On January 21, 2026, Lemaire unveiled its Autumn-Winter 2026 collection, titled “mine eyes,” during Paris Fashion Week. The presentation was conceived as a collaborative performance with director Nathalie Béasse, drawing inspiration from her stage work “velvet” to transform the traditional runway into a living theater of moving tableaus. This intersection of disciplines sought to open up the space and transcend the conventional sense of time, creating what Béasse describes as a world of fabrics where color speaks.

The women’s collection explores transformation through materials that evoke illusions of light and texture. Crushed velvet with metallic glimmers sits alongside lacquered denim and dry silk, reflecting a palette of pearlescent, oxidized, and iridescent tones. Femininity is heightened through asymmetrical draping, pleats, and hybrid pieces like quilted silk skirts that function as both capes and blankets. Surrealist accessories, including shell-shaped ornaments and starburst brooches, provide a rhythmic pulse to the silhouettes.

The men’s collection reimagines Western archetypes, such as sheepskin jackets and trench coats, with a fluid, Eastern-influenced sensibility. Tailored pieces are softened by the intimacy of slippers, while vibrant hues of mint green and yellow ochre bring a luminous quality to the garments. The collection also introduces a new language of urban camouflage through all-over prints of storm-inspired weather motifs and animal patterns. Throughout both collections, the rebellious spirit and dark humor of illustrator Roland Topor are felt, with his sketches leaping off the canvas to become expressive textile reliefs and threads.