On January 22, 2026, Rick Owens presented “Tower,” an Autumn-Winter 2026 Men’s collection conceived as a “temple of love” and a defiant prayer for hope. While Owens has previously avoided military tropes, this season deliberately embraces a grotesque parody of authoritative archetypes—a reaction to the pervasive sense of “enforcement” in the modern world. The result is a silhouette that functions as both a spiritual sanctuary and a subversive critique of power.

The collection’s material palette emphasizes protection and resilience through extreme craftsmanship. Structural coats are rendered in glossy bull leather and high-performance Kevlar—a fiber five times stronger than steel—sourced from a specialized family mill in Como. These “Police Boots,” presented in shades like “butch black” and “mincy mauve,” are bloated to absurd proportions, further pushing the collection’s theme of authoritative parody.

A global network of artisans adds a layer of intricate texture to the avant-garde structures. London-based Straytukay provided shaggy flight jackets made from water-jet cut hides, while Lucas Moretti contributed hand-tied macramé masks that required 30 hours of labor each. Additionally, the collection incorporates waxy cowhides from Himeji, Japan, used in transformable outerwear that reinforces Owens’ signature play with volume and proportion. Through this blend of defensive technology and raw craft, Owens constructs a “tower” that stands as a stark, soulful counterpoint to the current global climate.